Victorian Fashion, Sports, and Women:

What Victorian women wore while fencing, bowling, horseback riding,
playing tennis, golfing, skating, playing hokey, swimming, and walking cross country.

Excerpts from Athletics & Out-Door Sports For Women, 1903

Physical Training At Home

"The question of corset wearing has been much discussed. Scarcely any woman can be found to-day who believes that tight corsets are conducive to health. If the corset is really loose, little can be said against wearing it, except that it is unnecessary. But most women are apt to think their corsets are loose when they are not. Many women, who are too sensible to lace tightly, wear the corset for the support which it gives. This is because the muscles and tissues of the front of the body are weak from lack of exercise...If any woman will practice these exercises described in this article, she may continue to wear a corset so long as she wears it loose. She will soon give it up, for its support will not be needed."

Field Hockey

"The outfit is neither elaborate nor expensive…Every club must have its distinguishing colors carried out in the regulation 'hockey costume,' which members should be requested to wear at all practices and matches. The game cannot be safely or well played in ordinary dress…Men in the English hockey clubs, as a matter of course, don their club suit…but how often the women think 'anything will do,' and cheerfully play holding up a train in one hand, feebly wielding the stick with the other…

The hockey skirt should be plainly made, and as Rule VII.  reads, 'six inches from the ground all the way round.' The shirt-waist, made of flannel, to prevent risk of chills, should be loose fitting. This does not necessitate an ill-fitting garment or untidiness. Petticoats should not be worn, but knickerbockers of the same material as the skirt, fastening at the knee, be substituted. The club colors are best carried out in the entire suit; one club, perhaps, having white shirt-waists, green skirts, ties, and tam-o'-shanters; another, red shirt-waists, black skirts, and ties, and belts, etc. Foot wear depends on the whim of the player; some prefer the support of boots, others the lightness of tennis shoes."

Swimming

"The greatest difficulty the female pupil has to encounter is found in the costume which that all-powerful factor, custom, has declared she must wear. Judging from the practical and rational point of view, anything more absurd and useless than the skirt of a fashionable bathing-suit would be difficult to find. No one knows this better than the female professional swimmer, who, of course, is businesslike and practical in everything she does. Because she has learned that every unnecessary thread in a costume means an unnecessary drag upon her efforts, she eliminates every possible inch of fabric.

While the reader is neither advised nor expected to follow professional methods, nor to attempt the role of extremist in the matter of costume, she may do well in remembering the old saying 'Enough is as good as a feast.' Just to satisfy myself upon this point of costume, I once wore a close imitation of the usual suit for women. Not until then did I rightly understand what a serious matter a few feet of superfluous cloth might become in water. The suit was amply large, yet pounds of apparently dead weight seemed to be pulling at me in every direction. In that gear a swim of one hundred yards was as serious a task as a mile in my own suit. After that experience I no longer wondered why so few women swim really well, but rather that they are able to swim at all.

A much better suit would be a one-piece, loosely fitting garment of fine, light woolen stuff, with the skirt as an adjunct, but not as part of the actual swimming-suit. Such a costume would meet all real requirements, while greatly lessoning the tax upon one's strength. The true value of woolen fabric lies in the fact that it is the surest prevention against chill and all its unpleasant, if not extremely dangerous, possibilities..."

Cross Country Walking

"The foot should point straight ahead, or in exceptional cases very slightly outward. All barefooted people walk with the toes in this position; only the wearers of shoes turn them out…Old clothes are best-warm and not too tight. No constriction of any part of the body can be permitted; loose waists, knickerbockers, and short skirts are always desirable. The stockings should be large enough, soft, and free from holes and patches. Round garters should not be worn. The hat should be light and plain, capable of standing wind and rain. Wherever it is possible, walking should be done bareheaded. A light woolen sweater with a very low collar, or none at all, is an admirable garment, being soft and warm, while allowing perfect freedom to the arms. Underclothes should be of medium weight, and preferably of wool. Shoes and boots are the most important items of costume. These have always been the worst failures in clothes, which have been bad enough in every particular. What is essential in a foot covering is obvious: a device to protect the under and cover the upper part. The sole of the boot should therefore be a little longer and a little wider than that of the foot when it is supporting the body, for the human foot broadens when it is bearing weight. It should also be heavy enough to prevent inequalities from being felt through it. The boot must conform to the shape of the foot, and not compress it anywhere. Pointed toes are undesirable; if there must be a point, it should be directly in front of the great toe…the heel [should be] broad and low-not more than half an inch high. Man was not intended to walk on his toes. The boot should be laced, and fit snugly about the ankle, with the strings not tied about the ankle, but simply knotted in front."

Skating

"As when taking up any other sport the first thing to consider is the equipment, which should consist of a moderately short walking-skirt, reaching to within four or five inches of the ice, and a pair of well-fitting shoes that can be laced up high enough to give support.

Buttoned and low shoes are out of the question. ..The heel should not be too high, an inch or less."

Golf

"The best game for women is golf. What other game can a woman play that keeps her in the open air for hours at a time without overtaxing her strength?...

When a woman starts to play golf, she naturally thinks of what she shall wear. There is no distinct golfing costume, but I should advise a short skirt, a shirt-waist that does not bind, and a sensible pair of shoes, large enough to be absolutely comfortable, and with very low heels. Some prefer tennis shoes with no heels at all. One must have rubber or hobnails on the soles to keep from slipping."

Lawn Tennis

"As to costume, looseness is the first and most important particular. The waist should not fit too tight, and it should be particularly free at the elbows and shoulders. The skirt should be short and stiff enough not to get in the way of the knees or to bend so much around them as to bind or interfere with the player when she is making a stroke or running to reach the ball. The shoes should fit the feet snugly, and not allow them to slip around inside. Many players wear low canvas slippers with rubber soles, and find them more comfortable and less tiring than leather-bound shoes. It is well to wear thick stockings even in summer, so that the toes will be protected from the shoes…

'Common-sense' dress is always appropriate for sports and doubly so for tennis. One of the very best women players in America carries this to such an extreme that she has all her clothes made so that they hang from the shoulders instead of the hips. She thinks, and rightly, that this gives her more freedom in running about the court and gives greater ease around the waist. This player also braids her hair down her back, whenever she plays; however, this is by no means necessary for comfort, and certainly is not ornamental to most women. Gloves should not be worn for lawn tennis, for they prevent the best grip of the racket and always interfere with the delicacy of the stroke. It is better to practice a little at a time without a glove until the skin become hard enough not to blister."

Fencing

"In taking up fencing, one of the first questions which confronts a woman is the matter of costume. A costume suitable to foil play is easily provided. A shirt-waist with loose sleeves but tight over the wrist, a light-weight skirt reaching to the knees, and canvas shoes comprise all the essentials. A thin, light materials for the skirt is desirable, as it is conducive to ease and freedom of limb. Bloomers, quite baggy, and caught closely at the knee, are often preferred to a skirt; I advise the use of the garment which gives greater freedom and ease to the wearer. The sleeves of the waist should not be so baggy as to be in the way, nor so tight as to bind the wrist, upon the suppleness and strength of which so much depends."

Bowling

"When bowling, women should dress comfortably, avoiding tight-fitting clothes as far as possible. Street shoes are usually worn, but the value of regular bowling shoes is appreciated by the expert. A skirt in short or walking length is preferred, although a long skirt may be worn if occasion demands. A shirt-waist or blouse giving ease at the neck and armholes is essential. Freedom of movement is required for the whole body if physical benefit is to be derived from the game."

Equestrianism

"A great deal has been said and written in regard to the correct dress for the saddle, yet how many women know and practice its two most important laws?-first, to dress plainly and comfortable; second, to look well.

The habit must be well made, well fitted, of correct style, and of best material. Safety skirts should always be worn. There are several different patents for these. One is practically an apron, which on the saddle gives the effect of a skirt; there is no back to it, and the legs are perfectly free and in direct contact with the saddle. This is a very good and safe pattern for hunting and country use, but is most awkward when the rider is dismounted. Another is more like the ordinary habit skirt but with an open seam back of the legs and up around the pommel; this is provided with patent fasteners, permitting it to be closed when the wearer is off the hose, and readily opened predatory to mounting.

The regulation habit is tight fitting, single-breasted, with five or six buttons, and made long enough to touch the horse in back. Last spring a single-breasted, long, and somewhat loose coast with a fly front became very popular. Either of these is a sensible style to order…

Covert coats should be made big, and are very smart for outdoor riding. Norfolk jackets look well on slight women and children, and are very comfortable for country use. The heavier cloth you select for the habit, the better it will fit and wear and the longer keep its shape. Whipcords and dark materials are preferable…Khaki, duck, or crash habits are desirable for summer.

A black derby is the correct hat for winter, a plain straw sailor for summer, and sombreros are picturesque for some people in the far, far country. Of late a three-cornered hat has been popular, but it is not generally becoming. The hat should be large enough to set well down on the head and be kept in place by a broad elastic. Hat pins should never be worn; they look bad and are dangerous in case of accident. The hair should be worn plainly, either braided and tied at the neck with a ribbon or coiled securely low on the head.

Riding-boots, for comfort's sake a size larger than everyday shoes, should be of calfskin or patent leather…With summer habits tan boots should be worn or tan leggings over laced tan shoes. The boots, though, are always more comfortable than the leggings. Select your boots from a somewhat mannish last; the very pointed toe and high, narrow heels are no longer in vogue. Gloves should always be heavy, hand-sewed, with one or two clasps, and always a size or two larger than those ordinarily worn.

The underclothes for riding should be as carefully considered as the outer garments. The corset or corset waist should be loose enough for absolute comfort and freedom. Balbriggan drawers, such as boys wear, and socks are best. Stockings should not be used as they often wrinkle up and chafe, and elastics sometimes interfere with the circulation. Over the drawers may be worn with equestrian tights, reaching to the ankle, or breeches. The riding-breeches are made on the style of a man's riding-breeches and of similar material, but care should be taken that the buttons on the cuffs are on the inside of the right leg and on the outside of the left leg. After the tights or breeches are put on, draw on the boots.

Beneath the habit coast should be worn some kind of shirt-waist, and for neckwear I recommend an Ascot stock fastened with an appropriate pin. The linen collar and necktie are also very smart…All jewelry should be avoided…

The under-dressing for riding in the cross saddle should be similar to that for the side saddle. Very baggy riding-breeches and polo-legged boots should be worn. The stiff boot is better than the legging, as it does not show the shape of the leg. The coat should be single-breasted, rather loose fitting, and with quite full and very long skirts, coming below the knee when the wearer is mounted. The coast should be split up the back to allow the skirts to fall each side of the horse, and provided with two tabs which, when the rider is in the saddle, should be secured to a button on each knee. With the skirts of the coast fastened at the knee the whole thigh and upper leg are concealed, and nothing but a smart boot is visible."

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04/22/2006