Paper Hats

Paper Hats

in antique and vintage fashion history

by Francine Kirsch

      In the first years of the last century, when hats were large and lovely, large and lovely paper hats made their debut in polite society. According to a 1907 publication, besides being worn more traditionally "at evening parties; costume parties; church, school and society entertainments, they can be worn anywhere, in theatricals, outdoor fetes, and country clubs." Price played a big part in their popularity. "They are not only stylish and wearable but practical, duplicating the modish 'mode' hats at a fraction of the cost," claimed the same publication. Paper hats were also said to be "remarkably durable, light and comfortable, easy to make and unlimited in variety. Much of their attractiveness lies in the beautiful color combinations possible," combinations formed mostly from crepe paper--plain or patterned--and tissue paper.
      According to Dennison, a major crepe and tissue paper manufacturer and source of paper hat how-to's, "these hats can be very simple or as picturesque as a Parisian extreme." An illustration from a Dennison catalog shows hats whose crepe paper was so beautifully layered that it could have been mistaken for fabric or straw.
      But even when they were quite obviously made of paper, such chapeaux could shine. Eight exceptionally pretty paper hats and eight matching paper dresses appeared in one 1912 magazine article. The hats ranged from flowery mob caps, to tassel-trimmed caps, to wide-brimmed picture hats. Every one of them--and the frocks that went with them--were made of floral-printed crepe paper. "The cost of the costumes and hats ranges from $1.03 to $1.07 for materials, including the wire, mercerized thread, paste, etc., used in their making," the editor's claimed.
      Nor were hats and dresses the only clothing items concocted from paper--a magazine advertisement of the era also mentioned parasols and fans. Women who wanted to see these items in person could visit a Dennison shop where "a full line is always on exhibit for those who wish to purchase ready-made hats and those who wish to see how they are made." Dennison also published "a small book illustrating crepe paper hats" for women who wanted to make their own.
      To make a crepe paper tam o'shanter, a popular Gibson Girl style, you began with a wire frame. Then you "cut your crepe paper twice the width of the frame's brim and nearly twice the circumference. Gather along both edges (separately) and sew first to the outside and then to the inside of the frame, where the crown joins the brim. Use any light substance (tissue will answer) for the foundation of the crown. Cut out a circular piece (about 10 to 12 inches in diameter) and the same in crepe. Lay one over the other and gather together. Fit this over the frame and you have your tam o'shanter crown. Finish with a band of ribbon and you are ready for the trimming." The trimming was "two great rosettes of contrasting colors, placed a little to one side of the front."
      In addition to rosettes, there were instructions for braiding 6 2/3 inch wide strips of crepe paper; also for cording, shirring, and plaiting it. "Dennison's Crepe Paper being easily manipulated, you can fit and trim a hat, just as if it were cloth."
      The making of crepe paper hats was still popular as late as 1920. A wide-brimmed one was made with "a wire ring the size desired for the hat brim. Take a piece of [crepe paper] long enough to go around the wire and twice as wide as the brim is to be. [Fold] this piece down the center and around the rim. Gather the inside edges until the brim fits the head, then fasten the thread. Sew three straps of crepe paper to the brim at equal distances apart, and gather them up at the top."
      By the early 1930s, crepe paper hats were formed on skull cap foundations made of crepe paper 10 inches wide and long enough to fit around the head. The ends were pasted together and, while on the head, the top edge was gathered together and tied with a wire. Among the crepe paper fantasies which grew out of these skull caps were bouquets, summer moths, pin-wheels and irises, all for party wear. While paper hats were still being made for some street clothes, they were small, serious affairs reflecting the decade's depressed economy.
      Why not use the old-time instructions we've included in this article to create a paper hat of your own--for show, if not for wear? You can use new crepe paper, still being manufactured by Dennison and sold at card and party supply stores. Or, choose old folds, which are fairly easy to find at flea markets and antique shows--and are frequently printed with patterns (which new folds are typically not). For trim, consider contemporary crepe paper streams and fringe, the beautifully patterned tissue paper meant for wrapping gifts, and wire-edged ribbon, which is great for forming flowers and bows. you may enjoy playing with paper as much as our ancestors did!

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04/21/2006